I trust this article finds you well.  If you’ve found this page, you are probably trying to make a block, so I’ll just jump in.

Carving a block is fairly straightforward.  You just need to think in terms of 3 dimensions.  Start by creating a design you want to use. I would start very simply at first.  As your carving skills develop you can make more complex shapes.  I have carved eagles heads, cougars and a wolf, but I would start simply at first.  It is good to be successful at your first attempt 😉  Take EXTREME care to always carve AWAY from you to minimize the danger of cuts and accidental stabbings.  Whenever possible use a vice and/or wear a good leather glove on the hand you are holding the block with.

Good carving tools are not expensive.  I found a surgically sharp carving knife at the local hobby shop.  A set of hobby files and various sandpapers from rough to fine are all you need.  If you want to use it, a dremel works well.  Use caution with dust. Some woods produce toxic dust.  Sanding or the use of a dremel is not a good idea in the same room with any computer or electronic device that is not sealed. Enormous amounts of dust can accumulate very quickly.  I learned the hard way ;-(

This tutorial assumes you have the body of the flute finished.  I will be writing up detailed instructions on how to make a wooden flute in the near future.  If you have purchased a flute from a flute maker, you can easily add a custom block of your own.

Here is a quick drawing of a very simple block design:

The gray area is the area to be removed.  Draw the outline of the side view onto your block of wood.  For your first block, use a fairly soft wood to make the going easier. After the shape is drawn on, I use a thin wood saw. A hacksaw will do.  A coping saw works well. Care needs to be taken to stay perpendicular to the block.  Cut away the basic shape.  The dimension of the bottom should be slightly wider than than the flue (channel between the true sound hole and the slow chamber) and just slightly longer so you have a little room to adjust.  It only needs to cover up to the edge of the true sound hole.  The notch is optional.  I think it is easier to use a notch for getting a clear sound from your flute.  The notch should match up with the mouth end of the true sound hole and the sides.

It is important that the bottom surface be very flat and smooth.  Place fine grit sandpaper on a flat surface and stroke the block in one direction ONLY.  Using a back and forth motion WILL create rounded edges.  The goal is NO air escaping from the back or sides of the flue.  Use hobby files to smooth the shape as desired and sand it smooth taking care not to round off the edges of the bottom. You may want to consider flattening the bottom last.  Flattening the bottom is not optional if you want a good tight seal.

Once you have this sanded and finished as desired, mount it with a strap by wrapping it around the flute body and the top notch of the block. I prefer leather which can be obtained at any Tandy store in your area or online. You could optionally drill a hole through the side of the block near each end and run a single leather lace through the back whole, around the flute and through the front hole in the opposite direction then tying it on the underside of the flute. Initial set up is with the front edge of the block lined up with the mouth end of the true sound hole on your flute.

I would be happy to answer any questions you have. I thoroughly enjoy making flutes and I never tire of playing them.  I hope you find as much enjoyment as I do.

Harold